Kenya & Tanzania - The Insider’s Guide

Bursting with local knowledge and practical tips for making the most of your holiday
Michler, Ian
kenya-tanzania
9781770070110
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Kenya & Tanzania - The Insider’s Guide

Author: Ian Michler
Struik Publishers
Cape Town, 2006
ISBN: 9781770070110
Paperback, 21x25 cm, 192 pages, throughout colour photos

Kenya & Tanzania - The Insider’s Guide Eine gelungene, kompetente Mischung aus Reiseführer und Bildband, aus der Serie "The Insider’s Guide", dessen Anschaffung für den Besuch Kenias wirklich lohnt.


Description:

Kenya & Tanzania - The Insider’s Guide is a must-have traveller’s companion to East Africa. It’s bursting with local knowledge and practical tips for making the most of your holiday in this richly diverse tourist mecca.

From spectacular game safaris to sophisticated beach lodges; from the historical roots of humankind in the Olduvai Gorge to Zanzibar’s picturesque Stone Town and the bustling mainland cities.

From the icy peak of Kilimanjaro to the teeming crucible of the Ngorongoro Crater – in a lively and evocative style, the author paves the way for an unforgettable adventure in East Africa.

There’s plenty of practical advice, contact names and addresses and even a selection of useful phrases. A profusion of colourful photographs gives the reader a further taste of what’s in store.


About the Author:

Ian Michler, a stockbroker by profession, has more than 13 years of guiding experience in Africa.

He has lived in Botswana for nine years where he works as a freelance guide and photographer, specialising in travel and wildlife photographs.

His work has been published in several magazines such as Africa - Environment & Wildlife, Africa - Birds & birding, and the South African Wildlife Magazine. He was also the winner of the Bird catogory in the 1998 Agfa Wildlife Photographic Awards.

His extensive travels and photojournalism has resulted in various books: This is Mozambique, Mozambique – A Visual Souvenir and BOTSWANA The Insider’s Guide.


Media Reviews:

Sawubona
"This is a must-have traveller’s companion to East Africa. It is bursting with local knowledge and practical tips for making the most of your holiday, from the icy peak of Kilimanjaro to the historical roots of humankind in the Olduvai Gorge."


Preface:

Of all the regional African groupings that exist in various contexts - such as geographica, politica, economic - the East African one that pairs Kenya and Tanzania somehow seems the most natural.

Being agreeable neighbours with sound bilateral political relations is a good enough reason, but the confirming factors come from all that they share: Swahili and English as their main languages, a similar history of migration, conquest and colonialism, and the remarkable natural heritage extending across both countries that acts as the bonding agent. It is hardly surprising that visitors to the region will often include Kenya and Tanzania on the same itinerary.

The relative political stability of both countries in an otherwise turbulent region is also important. Despite long-standing and ongoing conflicts in their neighbours Rwanda, Burundi, Democratic Republic of Congo, Sudan, Ethiopia and Somalia, Kenya and Tanzania remain relative havens of peace.

But there are nonetheless numerous distinguishing factors. Of these, the most intriguing are the contrasting political cycles and socio-economic fortunes each has experienced since independence. Kenya was already established as a regional power when its first president, Jomo Kenyatta, started to set the country up for the future. He attracted widespread approval and investment with his conciliatory political tone and pro-motion of an open economy.

Almost 15 years later, and still under the same party banner, Daniel Arap Moi took over. It was not long after this that the rot set in. His more than 20 years of autocratic rule were characterised by cronyism and maladministration, and by the time he left government in 2002, institutionalised corruption had seriously damaged the political and moral fabric of Kenya.

The early promise had been squandered, and growth and development stifled. In some quarters his departure was greeted with euphoria, and the country as a whole had high hopes for widespread political and economic reforms. Tanzania in many ways has been the mirror image. At independence it was not nearly as developed or as significant a regional player as its northern neighbour. The country began its independence by heading even deeper info the political and economic wilderness.

No sooner had he been sworn in as the first post-colonial president than Julius Nyerere took the country on a long and arduous path of severe socialism. His programme of rural agricultural co-operation was fashioned around the principles of what he labelled ‘Ujamaa’, or ‘family-hood’.

It was not successful and eventually became extremely unpopular. Nyerere left office in 1985, and although it was at least another decade before the country had rid itself of his thinking, Tanzania’s fortunes have been steadily improving ever since. He was successful, however, in one sense: Tanzania is a more united country than Kenya, and does not suffer the latter’s ethnic tensions.

Today, both countries are still regarded as under-developed, and they labour under mountains of international debt, but the immediate future holds different prospects for each. Kenya remains the regional centre of NGO and multinational activity, but the government of Mwai Kibaki continues to struggle with the legacy left by Moi.

Corruption remains endemic, political infighting is a prominent feature, and economic growth and investment are sluggish. Two critical indicators: a recent AIG International report estimated that over 55% of citizens live in abject poverty; and GDP per capital has fallen by an annual average of 0.6% since 1 990. These highlight the poor record of the country, and the magnitude of the challenges ahead.

Tanzania is still listed as one of the world’s poorest countries and relies heavily on foreign aid, yet there is a far more positive buzz about the place. The economy has grown at nearly 5% per annum over the last decade and is now moving along at over 6%. Infrastructural development is taking place across the country and multinationals are setting up shop. In the World Economic Forum’s 2003/4 Growth Competitiveness Index, Tanzania was ranked 69fh, well above Kenya’s 83rd position.

The challenges Kenya faces to regain its position of dominance in the greater East African region are by no means insurmountable. The country is strategically placed geographically, it has a reasonably developed industrial base, a communications and banking infra- structure, and a relatively large middle class that is both well-educated and affluent. With its free press and open democracy, the electorate should be able to bring its wishes to bear.

Tanzania’s major challenge will be to reduce poverty and spread growth and investment to the far-flung regions of the country, rather than in just a few northerly nodes, as at present. For visitors, much of this merely serves as interesting background information. Both countries have well developed tourism industries that are second only to their agricultural sectors, so you are going to be truly welcomed and looked after in a thoroughly professional way.

The signs of poverty and under-development are there for all to see; but the warm-hearted people and the immense beauty and diversity of landscapes and wildlife are likely to be the more enduring memories. Welcome to Kenya and Tanzania.


Contents:

Author’s note:
Welcome To Tanzania and Kenya
The original safari
What is East Africa?
Proudly tanzanite
A first for Kenya and Africa
Be enticted
Tanzania
Kenya
From skeletons to safaris TO
Overview
Factfile - Tanzania
Factfile - Kenya
The Rift Valley
Dynamics of the Great Rift Valley (GRV)
Factfile
East Africa’s great lakes
A place of two seasons
En route
City to city
The Tanzanian coastline
The Kenyan coastline
On safari
National parks and reserves
Wildlife highlights
In Tanzania
In Kenya
Be quided
Food for thought
Wildlife wonders
Animal portraits
Under threat
Science and conservation
Island style
Factfile
The Zanzibar Archipelago
The Lamu Archipelago
Mafia Island
Out of the way
Tanzania
Kenya
The life and soul
Who’s who in Tanzania?
Who’s who in Kenya?
So to speak
A traveller’s vocabulary
Myth and mystery of the Maasai
Travel
Travel advisory
Contact details - Tanzania
Contact details - Kenya
Index


Index:

Page numbers in italics refer to photographs.
Aberdares Range 110, 163
Abyssinian Rift 52
Adamson, Joy 1 09
Adidas in Dar (eatery) 63
aduma dance 41
African biomes 1 38
African Conservation Foundation
140
African Plate 51
African Wildlife Foundation 140
Afro-Arab Rift System, see Great
Rift Valley
Afro-Islamic Swahili culture 35
afro-montane forest 96
agriculture
Kenya 40
Tanzania 35-36
air charter
Kenya 186
Tanzania 1 85
Albertine Rift 52
Ali Barbours Cave (restaurant)
70
alpine desert 99, 1 10
Amboseli National Park 4-5,
24,26,102
annual rut 88
antelope species 91, 1 63
De Fossa’s woterbuck 1 33
roan 95
sable 92, 95
anti-pooching
and de-snaring 66
measures 1 40
Arabian Peninsula 51
Arabian Plate 51
Arabuko-Sokoke 26, 86
Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve 73
archaeological expeditions 35
archaeological sites 91, 109,
163
art galleries (Nairobi) 67
Arusha 1 4
eating out and nightlife 64
shopping 64
street scene 6, 64
things to do 63
where to stay 63-64
Arusha F-lotel 64
Arusho National Pork 63, 100
Asian quarter mini-markets 63
Athi/Galana river system 52
Athi River fOO
Azania House 26, 151
Australopithecus boisei
(‘nutcracker man’) 35
avifauna 86
Baobab trees 21, 91
Bogamoyo College of Art 68
Bogamoyo trading and slaving
port 68
Bajuni people 150, 176
bamboo 1 10
Bamburi Beach 73
banking 1 82
Bantu-speakers 168, 169, 176
Borabaig people 22-23, 161
Bateleur Camp 101
Batian peak I 10
Bedouin Camp 26, 109,
1 14-1 15
‘Big Five’ Snake Safari 73-74
bio-diversity, management of 1 39
Bio-Ken Snake Farm 73
birding 24, 26, 86,91, 92,
103, 109
BirdLife International 140
birds 95
Clarke’s Weaver 73
cormorants 26, 105, 109
egrets 109
flamingos 18-19, 24, 26,
55, 86,106
herons 26, (05
kori bustard 136
lappet-faced vulture J35
lilac-breasted roller 40
pelicans 24, 106
white-backed vulture 134
white storks 1 37
birds and ecosystems 1 40
bird watching ?00
Borana Lodge 26, 1 06
Borana people 1 04
Breezes Beach Club 147
buffalo 4-5, 7, 85, 91,92,
95,100,103,163
Buffalo Springs National Park
32-33, 85, 109
Calabash restaurant 63
camels 163
rides 71
Carnivore, The 67
Carr-Hartley, Rob 1 1 8, 1 18
casinos 62
Central Island 163
Central Plains 101
ChadaKatavi 21, 92
Choda Plain 92
Chagga people 169
cheetahs 85, 101, 102
chefs and cuisine 1 20-1 21
Chirongani Hills I 10
Chogoria Route 1 1 0
Chole Island 154
CholeMjini (lodge) 154
Chumbe Island Coral Pork
;44,146
Chyulu Hills 24, 84, 102,
1 10
Chyulu Hills National Pork 102
Ciao Geloti coffee shop 64
cichlids fish 54
climate
factfile 144
tropical 56
Club Room, The 63
Colobus Trust primate sanctuary
71, 140
community-based conservation
pro|ects I 40
conservation
bodies involved in 140
initiatives 82, 104, 140
of wildlife 66
continental drift 51
Coral Beach Hotel 63
coral reefs 73
Cove, The (treehouse resort] 70
Cradle of Humankind
candidate for 34
GIduvai Gorge 91
Crater Highlands 52, 91
crocodiles 88, 92, 101, 130
Nile 163
Cultural Heritage (complex]
64-65
Cultural Tours 63
currency 1 82
Cushitic people 168
cut-flower industry 1 06
cyclones 1 44
Dor es Salaam 61
background information
61-62
eating out and nightlife 63
palm matting 16
port of 60
shopping 63
things to do 62
where to stay 62-63
David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust,
The 65, 66, 140
desert lake 163
dhow
cargo 142-143
cruise 24, 26, 92
harbour 146
ngalawas (outrigger] f47
trips 146, 156-157
Diani 85
Diani Beach 28, 70
Diani House (beachfront villa) 70
diving 73, 144, 154
operators 1 87
Dodo’s Tower 26, 106
dolphins 73, 85
East Africa
geographical term 1 3
prehistoric 35
regional reference 1 3
East African Coastal Current
144
East African Rift System, see
Great Rift Valley
East African Rift Valley, see Great
Rift Valley
East African Rift Zone 51
East African savannah 1 38
East African Wildlife Society
140
Eastern Rift 52
ecological initiatives 140
economy 10
critical indicators 1 0
Tanzania 35
education
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
educational programmes 1 40
eland 87
electricity 182
elephant 21, 32-33, 83, 85,
91,92, 95, 102, 109,
110, 163
conservation 140
Elsa’s Kopje (lodge) 25, 1 02,
102, 103
emergency service numbers 1 8 1
Emerson and Green Hotel 1 45
Empakaoi volcanic peak 52
ethnic groups 163, 168-169
Ewaso Ng’iro River 52, 109
exploitation of natural resources
139
Fauna and flora 1 38
female circumcision ceremony
171
Festival of the Dhow Countries
146
Finch Hattons (lodge) 1 03
fish 54
billfish 73
marlin and saltfish 73
fishing 56
Bagamoyo 69
fly-fishing 163
Fish Market 62, 62
flora, diversity of 162
food, see chefs and cuisine
forest reserves 83
Fort Jesus 41, 70
Forty Thieves (beach bar)
70, 73
fossilised coral rock 1 44
fossils, human 35
Frankfurt Zoological Society 141
freshwater lake 54
Fumba day trip 146
Fundu Lagoon 147
Game Control Areas 83
game drives 21, 68, 1 16
Game Parks and Reserves
fees 182-183
Tanzania 83
gome viewing 21,91, 103
motorised boats 95
Garden Bistro dining and bars
63
Garissa 163
garments, traditional 27
Garsen 1 63
gazelles 21, 85, 87
Gedi Ruins 73
gem deposits 14
George Adamson Wildlife
Preservation Trust, The 140
geothermal activities 5 1
gerenuk (antelope) 85, 106,
109
German Boma/Via Via Cultural
Centre 63
Gezaulole village 68
giraffe 85, 91, 95
reticulated 106, 109
Giraffe Centre, The 66
Giraffe Manor 67, 67
Gombe Stream National Park
85,92
Gondwana 5 1
grass plains 24
Great Rift Valley |GRV) 20, 26,
34-35, 48-49, 50,
106-107, 109
dynamics of 51
factfile 52
Great Ruaha River 95
Greek Club, The 64
Green Belt Movement 1 7
Gregory, John Walter 52
Gregory Rift 107
Greystoke Mohale camp 2 1,
92,120, 123
Grumeti River 88
Grumeti River Camp 88
GTZ (German development
agency] 140
Hadimu people 169
Hadzobe people 161, 168, 169
Handy, The (restaurant) 67
hartebeest 1 02
Cokes 101
Jackson’s 105
Leiwels 106
Haruna.Abdi 120, 120
Hoyo people 169
health and medicine 1 81
heather zone 1 1 0
Hemingway’s fishing resort 73
herbivores 1 01
hiking 21, 24, 100, 109, 110
Hi mayo House 74
hippo 92, 130
Hippo Point 26, 106
historical sights 70
Gedi Ruins 73
Holiday Inn 62
hominid footprints 35
honey stall 60
horseriding 24, 84
hotels and lodges 1 84
Kenya 186
Tanzania 1 84
House of Woine 67
humpback whales 73
hunting expeditions 1 2
hyaena 101
spotted 85
striped 85, 106
Immigrants 1 68
Im pa la Hotel 64
industry and manufacturing
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
International Biosphere Reserve
87
investment opportunities
Kenya 186
Tanzania 1 85
Iroqw people 161, 169
Islamic faith 37
Jackal, black-backed 134
Jade Sea’ 26, 163
Jane Goodall Institute, The 1 40
Jenkins, Mark 103, 104, 104
judicial system
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
Jongomeru Camp 95
Junction, The (shopping) 67
Kakamega 26, 86
Kakomego Forest Reserve 1 09
Kalenjin people 176
Kamba people 1 76
Kariakoo township 62
Katavi 85
Katavi National Park 92
Kotuma River 92
Kenya
brief history 40, 43, 50
conservation 140
contact details 185-186
ethnic groups
factfile 40
Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS)
66,84,103
campsites 163
Kenyotta Avenue 67
Kenyatta, Jomo 1 0
Khan’s Barbeque 64, 64
Kibaki, Mwai 10
Kibera (slum) 65
Kikomboni village 68
Kikuyu people 109, 176
Kilalinda (lodge) 103
Kilwa Kisiwani ruins 161
Kinasi Lodge 154
Kisema Ngeda (tented camp)
161
Kisite Marine Park 73
Kisumu (city) 77
Kivukoni 62
Kivukoni Ferry 68
Kiwaihu Island 1 50
Kiyaa, Peter 119, 1 19
Kleins Camp 88
Knocker, Richard 117, 117
kudu 95
Labe/ib deckenii (moorland
plant) 98
Laetoli 35
Laikipio 24, 85, 104, 140
Laikipia Lodge 26
Laikipia Wildlife Forum 104,
140
Lake Baringo 55, 86, 107
Lake Bogoria 86, 107
LakeEyasi 30-3;, 52, 55, 86,
160, 161
LakeMagadi f3, 55, 88, 107
Lake Malawi, see Lake Nyasa
LakeManyara 55, 85, 86, 91,
123
Lake Manyara Notional Park 91
Lake Manyaro Tree Lodge 91
Lake Noivosha 26, 55, 106
LakeNakuru 18-19, 24, 55,
82, 84, 85, 86
Lake Nokuru National Park
106-107
Lake Natron 55, 86, 158-159,
161
Lake Nyasa 54-55, 55, 57
Lake Rudolf 163
Lake Rukwo 52, 92
Lake Tangongire 91
Lake Tanganyika 2 1, 52,
54, f23
Lake Turkano 26, 35, 55,
109,163
Lake Victoria 26, 52, 54, 86,
?05, 106, 107
Lamu Archipelago 144,
150-151
Lomu Island 26, 150-151
Lamu Town 151, ;52-;53
transport 151
languages
dialects 178
English 10, 178
ethnic groups 168-169
Hodzabe 161
indigenous 1 78
Sandawe 1 61
Swahili 10, 178
travellers vocabulary I 78
Laurasia 5 1
Lazy Lagoon Island 68
Leakey family 34
Lemagurut volcanic peak 52
leopard 24, 85, 107, 131
Lewa Downs 85, 105
Lewa Downs Lodge 26, 106
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy
104,106,140
lions 80-8;, 85, 101, 102,
103
Elsa the lioness 1 03
tree-climbing 85, 91
Local Ocean Trust 140
Loisaba Lodge 24, 26, 106
Loitokitok Route 99
Loolmalasin volcanic peak 52
Loyongolani (village] 163
Lukuga River 54
Luo people 176
Lushoto ?62
Luyha people 176
Maasai
child 169
people 17, 82, 101, 104,
161,169,176
hut 175
myth and mystery 1 79
men 17
school 34
warrior 41, 166-167
warrior hairstyle 174
women 11, 176
Maothai, Wangari (Kenyan
ecologist) 17
Machame Route 99
Mafia Island 144, 154
Mahole Mountains 85
Mahale Mountains National
Park 91, 120
Makonde people 169
Malindi beach 70, 71, 74
mammals 85
MandaBay24, 26, 151, 151
fly fisherman’s haul
148-149
island lodge 24
Manda Island 150, 151
Man Friday fishing resort 73
Maralal (town] 1 63
Marongu Route 99
Mara River 88, 101
Mara Triangle 101
marine environment conservation
Marine Reserves
East African coastline 85
Tanzania 83
Morsabit [mountain reserve) 1 09
Marsabit National Park 1 63
Mosai 17
Masai Mara National Reserve
;, 26, 80-81, 82, 85, 88,
101-102
Mosoi Steppe 100, 169
Masi bo, Joseph 119, ;?9
Maswa Game Reserve 87
Matemwe Bungalows 147
Mathews Range 26, 1 09, 1 63
Mau Escarpment 1 06
Mau Mau resistance movement
176
Mbalageti River 88
Mbeya-Dar es Salaam road
58-59
Meela, Thomas 117, 1 ]7
Menai Bay conservation area
146
Mercury’s (restaurant) 146
Merelani Hills 14
Meru Conservation Area 1 03
Meru National Park 25, 26,
60, 103
Meru people I 76
micro-lighting 123
Mido Creek 73
migration 122
annual 85
great 87-88
peak period 1 01
Migration Camp 88
Mijikenda people 1 76
Millennium Sea Breeze Resort
68
mineral deposits
Tanzania 36
Misono [Japanese food] 67
Mkapa, Rais Benjamin W 34
Mkomazi Game Reserve 140
Miele Plateau 92, 92
Mnemba 85
Mnembo Island Lodge 146
mobile operators
Kenya 185
Tanzania 1 84
Moi, Daniel Arap 10, 17
Mombasa 70
Mombo (town) 162
Momella Gate 1 00
Momella Lakes 1 00
Momella Route 1 00
monsoons
north-east 144
south-east 144
two-season 56
montane forests 109, 110, 163
moorland 1 1 0
Morkel, Dr Peter 141, 141
Morogoro market scene f5
Moss, Cynthia 102
mountain hiking 21
mountain climbing
Mt Kenya 1 10
Mt Kilimanjaro 99
Mountain Club of Kenya 1 1 0
mountain guides 1 17-1 19
Mpunguti Marine Reserve 73
Msasani Peninsula 62, 63
Mt Elgon National Park 109
Mt Elgon volcano 52
Mt Kenya 109-1 10
volcano 52, 1 1 0
Mt Kilimanjaro 21,51, 95-99
Kibo peak 53
routes 99
summit zone 99
Uhuru Peak 96, 97
vegetation 99
volcano 52, 96
Mt Meru 95-96, 98, 100
Curios and Craft Market 64
volcano 52
Mughwango Hill 103
Muller’s Mountain Lodge 21,
162
multi-party democracy (Tanzania)
35
Musembi, George 1 21, 121
Mwagusi Safari Camp 95
Mweko Route 99
Mwenge Craft Market 63
mythology 1 79
Nairobi 65
background information 65
billboard plea 8-9
downtown 41
eating out and nightlife 67
shopping 67
skyline 1 1
things to do 66
where to stay 66-67
Nairobi Java House coffee
shop 67
Nairobi National Pork 66
Nairobi Serena Hotel 67
Naro Moru River Lodge 1 10
Naro Moru Route 1 1 0
national bird (Kenya) 40
national flag
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
National Museum
Dar es Salaam 62
Nairobi 66
national parks and reserves
Kenya 84
Tanzania 83
national symbol
Tanzania 36
Ndovu Bonde Treehouse 70
Nelion Peak 1 10
Ngomo Hills 101
Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge
63-64, 64
Ngoma, Jumanne Mhero 14
Ngong Racecourse 66
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
]7, 34, 83, 87, 88, 141
Ngorongoro Conservation Area
Authority (NCAA) 83, 88
Ngorongoro Crater 13, 83, 85,
86, 88
Ngorongoro Crater Lodge 86,
88, 89, ;12-113
Ngorongoro Highlands 100
Nile Perch (fish) 54
Nilotic people 168
Nobel Peace Prize 1 7
Nomads beach bar 73
non-aligned state
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
Norfolk Hotel 66
Nubian Plate 5 1
Nyali Beach 73
Nyambene Mountains 103
Nyomuragira volcano 52
Nyomwezi people 1 69
Nyasa Rift 52
Nyerere, Julius 10, 14, 34
Ujamaa policy 39, 62
Nyiragongo volcano 52
Ocean Sports fishing resort 73
Oldeani volcanic peak 52
01 Donyo Lengai 161
volcano 5 2, 100, 161
01 Donya Wuas Lodge 24, 1 02
Olduvai Gorge 35, 91
Olekasoo, Daniel 119, 1 19
Olmoti volcanic peak 52
Oloololo Escarpment 101
Omo River 163
Open Areas 83
Orma people 150, 163, 176
dwellings 29
oryx, Beisa 85, 109
Oyster Bay Grill 63
Palms, The (lodge) 147
Pangaea continent 51
Pangani River 52, 68
Pare Mountain 1 00
Pate Island 1 50
Patisserie, The 64
Pemba 21
people 169
underwater experience 85
Pemba Channel 73
Pembo Island 35, 144, 147
photographic safaris 83
Pilli Pipa Dhow Safari 73
pineapples 44-45
Pinewood Village 70
pisci-fauna fish 54
plate movements 51
poaching 103, 104
Point Lenana Route 1 1 0
Pole Pole Resort 1 54
political cycles, contrasting 1 0
political stability 10
population distribution (Kenya)
40
prehistoric East Africa 35
primate conservation 1 40
primates
baboons 91
chimpanzees 21, 85,
91-92, 124-125
Colobus Trust sanctuary
71, 73
olive baboons 84
Sykes monkeys 1 32
Protea Amoani Beach 68
Proteo Hotel Oyster Bay 62-63
public holidays 1 81
Q Bar 63
Rainforests 1 09, 110
rain, monsoon-driven 56
Ras Kutani beach 68, 68
Ras Nungwi Beach Hotel 147
Rendille people 163, 176
reptiles 73, 74
Republic of Kenya, see Kenya
Revolutionary Council of
Zanzibar 35
rhino 24, 88, 103, 107,
f26-f27
black 85, 106, 141
conservation 140, 141
white 106
rivers, drainage pattern of 52
Rivertrees Country Inn 63
Rob Carr-Hartley mobile safari 24
Rongai Route 99
Rothschild’s giraffe 66
Royal Palm Hotel 62
Ruaha National Park 95
Ruaha Reserve 21,85
Ruaha River 52, 95
Rufiji River 52, 95
Rukwa rift valley 92
Rungwa River 52
Rusinga Island 86
Rusinga Island Lodge 107, 109
Ruvuma River 52
Saadani fishermen 78-79
Saadani National Park 68
Saadani Safari Lodge 68
safaris 24, 82
industry 1 2
mobile 21, 26
walking I 86
safely and security 1 82
Salama House 151, 155
Salama Lodge 26
Somburu
elder 1/2-173
guide ;08
maiden 1 1 1
people 82, 104, 109, 176
warrior 42
Samburu National Pork 26,
32-33, 85, 109, 163
Sandawe people 161, 169
Sand River 101
Sand Rivers Selous 95
Sorit Shopping Mall 67
Saronga, Ludovic 118, 118
savannah ecosystems 1 46
Sayari Camp 88
Sea Cliff Hotel 63
Sea Cliff Village 63
secular state
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
Selous, Frederick Courteney 92
Selous Game Reserve 21, 85,
92, 93, 95
Selous Safari Camp 95
semi-nomadic pastoralists 1 79
Serengeti 82, 85
migration 21
setting 20
sunset 86
Serengeti/Mara ecosystem 26,
85, 87
Serengeti National Park 87
services sector
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
Shaba 108
Shompole [lodge] 102
Shanzu Beach 73
Shela village 1 5 1
Sheldrick, Angela 66
Sheldrick, Daphne 66
Sheldrick, David 66
Shimba Hills National Pork 70
Shimoni 73, 85
Shira Plateau 99
Shira Route 95, 99
Shooting Star Lodge 147
Shoprite Complex 65
Sibiloi (mountain reserve) 109
Sibiloi National Pork 163
Siria Escarpment 1 01
Sirimon Route 1 1 0
slave trade 145
Slipway, The |complex| 63
snorkelling 73, 92, 144, 146,
154, 154
socio-economic fortunes I 0
‘soda lakes’ 55
Somali people 150, 163
Somali woman with
camels 165
Somoli Plate 51
Songo Mnara ruins 161
southern African woodland 1 38
Southern Circuit 92, 95
Southern Highlands 100
South Island 163
Stanley, The 67
Stieglers Gorge 95
St Joseph’s Cathedral 38
Stone Town 21, 38, 145, 146,
146
Stone Town ramble 145
subterranean processes 50
Sukuma people 1 69
Swahili
ancient ruins 161
civilisation 1 2, 35
culture 1 68
elders 177
Swahili Coast 145
Swala Gem Traders 14, 65
Swala Lodge 91
Sweat Eazy bar and nightclub
63
Taiek River 101
Talisman restaurant 67
Tamarind Dhow 70
Tamarind Nairobi seafood
restaurant 67
Tamarind Village 70
Tana River 52
Tonga beach 68
Tanganyika, see United Republic
of Tanzania
Tanzania
brief history 36, 39
conservation 140
contact details 184-185
ethnic groups 1 69
factfile 35
Tanzania National Parks
(TANAPA) 83
Tanzania Wildlife Research
Institute (TAWIRII 140
tanzanite 1 4
gem cutter 14
Torangire National Park 21, 83,
85, 86, 90, 91
tea
estates 106
picker 46-47
tectonic activity 5 1
tented mobile safaris 82, 109
termite mounds 21, 90, 91
Tides, The [beach lodge) 68
Tinga Tinga Artists’
Co-operative 62
topi 101
TortilisCamp 102
tour and safari operators
Kenya 185
Tanzania 1 84
tourism 1 2
tourism representatives
Kenya 185
Tanzania 1 84
trading partners
Kenya 40
Tanzania 36
travel
advisory 181-183
by road 60
tips 183
Travellers Lodge 68
trees 26
acacia 92, 102, 107
beech 96
borossus palms 93
Candelabra euphorbia 82
cedar 96
doum palm f03
fever tree 102, 106
fig 96
giant camphor 96
olive 96
rosewood 1 10
tamarind 92
umbrella thorn 102
yellowwood 96
trophy hunting 83
Tsavo National Park 66, 85,
103,140
tuberculosis sign 76
Tudor Creek 70
Tumbatu people 169
Turkano
community 1 04
people 1 76
turtles 73
Udzungwa Mountain 86, 100
Ufipa Plateau 92
Uluguru Mountain 86
Umbwe Route 99
Unguja island (Zanzibar) 35
United Republic of Tanzania, see
Tanzania
Upanga township 62
upland forests 1 1 0
Usumbara Mountain 2 1, 86,
100,162, 162
roadside enticements 164
Vegetable stall 58-59
veterinary clinics, mobile 66
Village Market, The 67
Virunga Mountains 52
visas 1 82
volcanic hills 24
volcanic islands 1 63
volcanoes 51, 52
Von Szek, Count Samuel Teleki
163
^M^mbaa Peninsula 147
Wami River cruise 68
Wasini Beach 73
Wasini Island 73
Watamu 73, 74
coral outcrops 7)
fishing craft 72
Wotamu Marine Park 73
water sport 24
Mafia Island 154
Mpunguti Marine Reserve 73
Ras Kutani 68
West African tropical forest 1 38
Western Circuit 91-92
Western Corridor 85, 88
Western Rift 52
Westlonds Market, The 67
whole sharks 73, 85
wild dog 21, 85, 92, 95
wildebeest 21, 85, 87, 88,
101, 102, 128-12V
white-bearded 131
wildlife
biomoss 50
Great Rift Valley 52
Katavi National Park 92
Lake Torangire 91
Masai Mara 26
Ngorongoro Crater 87
Northern Circuit 87
research projects 140
Serengeti 21, 87
Serengeti/Mara 26
Wildlife Conservation Society of
Tanzania (WCST) 1 40
Wildlife Division, The |TWD) 83
wind patterns 1 44
World Heritage Sites 87,
95,150
Yatta Escarpment
Yoyo Mall 67
103
Zanzibar 21, 35
Zanzibar Archipelago 35,
144,145-147
Zanzibar Channel 147
zebra 21, 85, 87,92, 100,
101,102
Grevys85, 106, 109, 134
Zinza people I 69