08.11.2014

Trad climbing in the Cape Peninsula

Traditional climbing in the Cape Peninsula.

Traditional climbing in the Cape Peninsula.

SA MOUNTAIN: South Africa's dedicated climbing Magazine.

SA MOUNTAIN: South Africa's dedicated climbing Magazine.

Climber, hiker, author and publisher of SA Mountain magazine Tony Lourens shares his thoughts on trad climbing in his home region, the Cape Peninsula.

There are very few places on Earth where such a range of world-class climbing lies within the boundaries of a huge city. The entire Cape Peninsula Is dominated by the majestic Table Mountain chain that starts in the north with the front faces of Table Mountain itself overlooking the bustling city of Cape Town, and runs south along the backbone for 60 kilometres, culminating in the wild, unspoilt Cape Point Reserve on the extreme southern tip. Climbing anywhere on the Peninsula, the climber is almost always rewarded with stupendous mountain scenery and glorious sweeping views of the mighty oceans that surround the bony Table Mountain chain. If it is wild exposed climbing in a high mountain setting you are looking for, then The Ledge on Table Mountain is where you want to be. This is the showcase of trad climbing on the Peninsula and here you will find excellent climbing on bullet-hard sandstone that will rival routes anywhere in the world. For less 'out there' routes, the Lower Buttresses (a few hundred metres below The Ledge) offer great climbing of a slightly friendlier nature. On the Apostle Buttresses running along the western side overlooking the Camps Bay Riviera, the climbing takes on another mood altogether - beautiful crags nestled between deep ravines, each exuding their own individual character, giving routes from four to ten pitches In length. If the weather Is a little turbulent for the main massif, then you will often find that Lion's Head and also the crags on the southern Peninsula (Muizenberg Crag and Elsie's Peak) are unaffected by the threatening frontal weather systems. Here you will find a plethora of short multi-pitch routes of all grades with Elsie's Peak a real gem if you are looking for steep hard climbing. The Cape Peninsula is a veritable paradise in many ways, and climbing is certainly one of them. The choice of routes is almost limitless and you will often find yourself climbing on perfect rock, high above the boundless seas with not another human in sight. Just you, the smell of the fynbos in your nostrils and, if you are lucky, the company of the magnificent Black Eagle. Then, what better way to finish off a day at the crag, than at one of the many sidewalk cafes, or cosy pubs, having a cold beer and reflecting on a perfect day on the rock?

Tony Lourens

Learn more about trad climbing in South Africa and go for Tony Lourens's guide 'Cape Peninsula Select: A guide to trad climbing in the Cape Peninsula'. Blue Mountain Design & Publishing. Cape Town, South Africa 2014. ISBN 9780620574693 / ISBN 978-0-620-57469-3

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